More competition for Jean Georges

It was during one of those cold rainy evenings in Shanghai, and I had a craving for something French. I was trying to decide between Jean Georges or Hamilton House, both along the Bund, when a friend suggested Sir Elly's at the new Peninsula hotel, which coincidentally, was also located along the Bund near Huangpu Road. I called up the restaurant and they confirmed that a table by the window was available, so I walked over.

Hotels in the Peninsula group all seem to have the same grand, opulent ambience and interiors, and this location in Shanghai is no different. As an old stately Shanghainese style mansion, it stays true to its old world charm. Sir Elly's is the modern European fine dining restaurant on the 13th floor of the hotel, accessible by the antique art deco styled elevator located in the shopping arcade section of the hotel. The entrance is both dark and inviting, with deep reds and plush black armchairs, a stunning view of the Bund and discreet understated elegance.

 I took a seat in the lounge as they prepared my table, and was then led into a fine dining room with high ceilings, a Chihuly inspired chandelier and well-appointed tables and chairs befitting a stately European manor. Lorenz, my European waiter came with the menu and introduced a few of the daily highlights, but the four course tasting menu immediately caught my eye (580RMB++). Perhaps, because I was famished, but probably more so due to the choice of words in the descriptions like "foie gras", "lobster" and "Wagyu", and not necessary in that order.

The amuse bouche was truffled egg custard with maple cream, and came in an egg shell with the top shaved off. The egg white inside was steamed perfectly, light salted and well scented with truffle oil, and combined very well with the slightly sweet maple flavored whipped cream. A perfectly light starter that set my stomach rumbling for more. While waiting for the next course, I sampled the bread basket. My favorite choice was the truffled scones. I also ordered a glass of the Peninsula pinot noir, specially bottled by the Keller Estate in Sonoma country, CA.

The foie gras soup with chives, and duck and fig confit was an absolute delight. The foie gras aroma was very enticing, the soup was not too heavy, and the confit at the bottom of the cup was a nice touch, with shreds of tender duck meat and sprinklings of fig. The extra croutons on the side gave each sip of the soup a light crunchiness.

And when I thought I had just experienced the best course of the tasting menu, along comes the steamed lobster in lobster bisque. A heavenly broth of flavor and chunks of juicy fresh Maine lobster meat layered in a glass bowl with sprigs of herbs.

For my main, I had a choice of sole or Wagyu tenderloin. Guess which one I picked. The dish arrived with a nice cut of beef tenderloin in the middle, with marinated forest mushroom slices on left, and a piece of steamed custard and poached pear on the right. The waiter then poured a small cup of beef broth over the beef. The most enjoyable part of this dish was the contrasting textures of the ingredients and the subtle flavors, not too overpowering and yet perfectly balanced. A soup spoon was provided so I could drink the light yet full flavored beef broth at the end of the course.

As a pre dessert, my strawberry pannacotta arrived in a small shot glass, with a layer of strawberry puree on the top. This was soft, delicate pannacotta, with a tiramisu-like texture and strawberry puree that was not too sweet, but just right. I was very full by the time the coffee souffle and Amaretto ice cream arrived. I could only eat a few scoops of the souffle, but finished the small scoop if ice cream before asking for the check.

This was by far the best French meal I've had in a long time, the dishes were perfectly executed and the service was superb. I even got to know the manager Cindy who came by for a chat as the evening drew to a close. I was definitely impressed by the whole experience, so much so that I called up the hotel the very next day and made a room reservation for the weekend.

Sir Elly's is located in the Peninsula Hotel, Shanghai, at 32 Zhongshan Dong Yi Road, The Bund.

Tel: +86-21-2327-2888