I guess a trip to Kikunoi, the revered Kyoto restaurant that catapulted Yoshihiro Murata into the culinary world of exquisite kaiseki meals and Michelin stars, should only be compared to another great restaurant like The French Laundry in Yountville, CA. Both are famous institutions in their own right, having achieved international acclaim and a worldwide audience who flock to their doors to sample some amazing fare created by the masters themselves. So, given the opportunity, I couldn't resist passing up on the best kaiseiki dinner in Kyoto to compare with my French Laundry experience.
I requested the concierge at the Hyatt Regency to make a reservation for me at Kikunoi for dinner that night. Even though it was a Monday, I had to settle for a 5PM dinner slot at the counter.
When we arrived at the restaurant in downtown Kyoto, we were shown to the counter, where chef Hiroki greeted us and presented the dinner set menu for Monday night. Kikunoi has been around for a long time, some three generations in fact, but it was only when Yoshihiro Murata took the helm of the family business and melded the time honored tradition of Japanese cooking methods with modern French influences, that Kikunoi started garnering widespread attention and fame. The restaurant is frequently listed in travel and gourmet publications specializing in the best regional cuisines in Japan, most notably when "kaiseki" cuisine is described, and is also often credited for elevating the kaiseki meal to a new level of fine dining pleasure.
But whether one considers this all hype or not, I'll have to let the photos speak for themselves, as they showcase the beauty that is Kyoto style kaiseki cuisine.
So here goes:
The dinner presentation started with an amuse bouche of demitasse of yuba (soymilk skin), pickled sea cucumber entrails and dried sea cucumber ovaries brunoise. It was deceivingly simple, but the demitasse was smooth as silk and lifted the delicate taste of the sea cucumber pieces.
Next up was a box of assorted appetizers comprising of smoked salmon camelia flower sushi, cod roe terrine, lotus root stuffed with mustard, mibuna, cured Karasumi (grey mullet roe) rolled in squid and angler fish liver. Another beautiful display of fresh ingredients and flavors to tempt the tastebuds and senses. I particularly liked the cured karasumi rolled in squid, with its multi-layered texture and salty squid meat. The stuffed lotus root reminded me of a common Shanghainese dish of lotus root similarly stuffed with glutenous rice and served cold as an appetizer.
The third dish was fresh Fugu (pufferfish) sashimi, simply served with chives and lime, for rolling and dipping. I had always considered Fugu an overrated dish (more for the thrill of playing with death by eating a poisonous fish), but tonight's dish was the freshest I've had. I'm starting to see the appeal after all.
The next dish came in a bowl and was a bit of a surprise - Fugu milt, Fugu skin, Karami daikon (Kyoto radish in season) and ponzu. The milt was very fresh, smooth and soft and felt like eating exquisite foie gras, the ponzu added some zest and the Fugu skin provided the chewy sensation. All the ingredients combined perfectly to form a dish that was fresh, simple yet complex and challenging to the senses and any novice who had never tried Fugu milt.
The steamed dish was next, this was Guji (red tilefish) steamed with grated kabura turnip, wood ear mushroom, lily bulb, mitsuba herb, fresh uni (sea urchin), gingko nut and wasabi. Again, unbelievably fresh ingredients elevated this simple yet delicate dish beyond what I was expecting when I tasted the very first morsel.
The chef's assistant appeared, with a large snow crab in a shallow weave basket, and that signaled the start of the grilled course. The crab legs were individually grilled in front of the counter, then served piece by piece on the serving plates. Later, the chef brought out the grilled crab shell filled with piping hot roe. I'm not usually the sort that likes crab roe, but this serving was fragrant, smooth and bursting with ocean flavors. I was amazed how delicious the grilled roe tasted.
Before the next course arrived, a small cup with a poached kumquat, soft with the right amount of sweetness, was presented to cleanse the palette.
Then the salad was presented to our table. Apple, mizuna, mackerel, gingko leaf-shaped ginger, walnut oil and apple sauce combined to make a very light, flavorful, fruity salad. A little sour, a little sweet, a little bite from the ginger and a hint of roasted walnut and fresh apple sauce made this another enjoyable dish.
Kikunoi's signature hotpot dish was next. Duck breast and duck meatballs were simmered in broth, with Kujo green onion for sweetness and sansho pepper for spiciness. The duck meat was very tender, and the broth was light yet flavorful.
Finally, the rice dish was presented in a large pot filled with salmon roe and seaweed. The chef then mixed the ingredients and served the rice with pickles and a bowl of Kintoki carrot soup. The rice was very well done and tasty, but it was the bright red carrot soup that surprised with a strong sweet taste of carrots, and best of all, it was not pureed. It almost seemed like a carrot broth reduction.
The meal ended with a baked apple and ginger ice cream dessert, all homemade and very delicious. For an elaborate kaiseki dinner, there are few restaurants that can top what Kikunoi pulled off tonight. There was not a single dish that stood out strikingly from the rest, yet each was a perfect dish in itself, and the combination of these various flavors, styles and ingredients made for an amazing gastronomic journey into Kyoto's finest restaurant. And that will certainly ensure Kikunoi's glowing reputation for years to come.
Tonight's meal was the most expensive of 3 sets on the menu, featuring winter seasonal delicacies and the freshest seafood of the day. In all, the cost of the meal was 17,000Yen, with a bottle of sake. Not extravagant for what most overseas diners would consider their best meal of their life. I thought it was sensibly priced and worth every penny for the ingredients, craftsmanship and the feast for the senses.
Kikunoi has 2 locations in Kyoto. The downtown location is Roan Kikunoi Kyoto, Kiyamachi Shijo-sagaru (on east side of Kiyamachi, second building south of Shijo). Tel: 075-361-5580
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