Tokyo's finest tofu temptation

I found this little known gem of a Kyoto-style tofu restaurant over 8 years ago while traveling through Tokyo. It's off the beaten path and not very easy to find since it doesn't have an English signboard, and has an unlikely entrance that you would miss if you didn't pay attention to the Japanese signage out in front. The restaurant is called Goemon, and is hidden away along a row of low rise buildings along a quiet neighborhood in Hakusan. The facade of building had been demolished, and replaced by a fluorescent-lit signage in Japanese that stood where the original front entrance used to be. And that's exactly the charm of Goemon, as you walk through the archway and further along the stone path leading to the small restaurant at the end, the sounds of the busy street trail off behind you and you are magically transported to a entirely different place instantly. Here you find cherry blossom trees, a koi pond and running stream, rock gardens and traditional Japanese huts and a gazebo. A truly picture-perfect setting for an evening dining experience if you were ever looking for one in Tokyo.

The restaurant is divided into two areas, the main dining hall with several communal tables, and the garden area where the huts and the gazebo are located. The traditional huts are perfect for the warmer evenings, and in the winter months the wooden paper screen doors provide some warmth as you dine inside.

Goemon is well known among the locals for superb tofu, all are freshly hand made daily by the proprietors ever since the restaurant opened years ago. For summer, the main highlight is cold tofu, and for winter it is tofu hotpot or yudofu.

We started dinner with chilled sesame tofu that was a little sticky yet full of sesame flavor. This was accompanied by a seasonal cold appetizer presentation comprising of various cold items that were paired with various types of tofu - salmon roe, pickled ginko, salmon sashimi and egg. The plate was beautifully decorated, and it looked almost too pretty to be eaten.

The next course was grilled tofu on skewers. I remember this was my favorite appetizer from my last visit four years ago, and this time it did not disappoint again. Three skewers, each with a brown, yellow and green sauce on top, were presented on a long sushi plate, each a distinct contrast from the other. The tofu was of a harder variety, very much akin to Chinese hard tofu.

Then we had a small macha (green tea) flavored tofu ball, deep fried. I guess this was their karaage version of tofu. The main course was the tofu hotpot, which came in a large claypot filled to the brim with fresh mushrooms, vegetables, seafood, chicken and chunks of the fresh homemade tofu simmering in a dashi broth. The contents of the hotpot could have easily fed 4 persons, and by this time, both of us were almost half full. And yet we persevered, sampling all the different types of ingredients that were simmering slowly over the charcoal fire. We ordered a bottle of Asahi beer as well. The waitress came back to the hut a few minutes later with bowls for our hotpot broth, which, by this time, had turned into a very flavorful broth.

Just as we thought we couldn't eat another mouthful, the final course of karaage chicken arrived. Unfortunately, we could only manage a couple of mouthfuls before calling it quits. We laid on the tatami floor and opened the screen door to let some cool night air into the little hut. The owners did not appear to be in a rush to make us pay up, so we took our time sipping tea and enjoying the cool weather.

Goemon, apparently, is well known among the local community, but few tourists ever venture this far away from the hotel districts. So it's probably one of the best kept secrets in Tokyo dining. This would be the perfect place for a truly traditional Japanese dining experience complete with the Japanese garden setting.

Goemon is located at:

1-1-26 Hon-Komagome, Bunkyo-ku, Tokyo.

Tel: 03-3811-2015

My soup is too salty (wanna pick a fight?)

I have been meaning to try Emmanuel Stroobant's new eatery for some months now, but sadly, I did not have a clue where The Sail was (but I can draw you a map to the newest entrant on the restaurant block in Shanghai or San Francisco any day). Fortunately, I was driving around Singapore's downtown marina district with my iPhone's Google Maps turned on, and was able to locate The Sail along Marina Boulevard within minutes.

Reservations were made for 8PM, but from the looks of the place as we entered, I shouldn't have bothered. While Rocks has garnered a reputation among the locals as the place to dine for lunch, dinner seemed like a far cry from the scene of a very packed and noisy eating establishment. Nonetheless, this would mean a pleasant, quiet meal and company for me.

Scanning the menu, it looked like Rocks prided itself on keeping things simple and fresh, which is a refreshing change from the sometimes over-the-top meal preparations that quite a few restaurants are mimicking these days in the hopes of bringing in more customers eager for something new or different.

First up, caesar salad for two. Delicious, a little dry, but well done and super generous serving portions. I decided I had to have the twice cooked Kurobuta pork cutlet for my main, and also ordered sauteed wild mushrooms and french fries on the side. The pork cutlet was extremely tender, with an almost melt-in-your-mouth quality and yet full of flavor. Unfortunately, it was a little too salty. When I sampled the mushrooms, they were also very tasty, and very salty. The fries were the saltiest, and I couldn't finish more than a few pieces. We let the waiters know about the salt problem, but they didn't seem too apologetic. In fact, service did not seem as polished as I what I would have expected from such a popular restaurant.

Despite the saltiness, the food quality was very good. Preparation was another problem, though. Our medium rare steak came out well done and had to be sent back. When they brought out a replacement, it was perfectly done, but for a restaurant calling itself a grill, this should not have happened in the first place. Maybe we went on an off-night and the staff were not at their best, but my overall impression hasn't been all that positive, so maybe I'll hold off for a few months before I come round again for their popular set lunches.


Rocks Urban Grill + Bar is located at:
2 Marina Boulevard, The Sail, # 02 – 01/02, Singapore 018987
Tel: +65-6438-4404

Pho 24, Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam

Although we had an extremely filling meal at Quan An Ngon, the one thing it did NOT serve was the traditional Pho Bo.  And how can one visit Vietnam without tasting Pho?

Thanks to the concierge at the beautiful Park Hyatt Saigon (which is centrally located on the same square as the Hotel Caravelle), we managed to squeeze in our Pho fix at an excellent Pho place just around the corner from the hotel.

The rice noodle was cooked to the right consistency but, better yet, the broth was more complex and flavourful than most you can get in Singapore (except when D Guy's mom cooks her pho).  The Vietnamese drip coffee with condensed milk on ice was an excellent accompaniment (never mind that it was my second for the day).

 

As it turns out, Pho 24 is a chain with 17 locations in District 1 alone and a total of 59 locations throughout Vietnam.  They also have branches in Indonesia, Philippines, Australia, Korea, Cambodia and more!!!  The one we patronised was on 15/5 Le Thanh Thon St. in a little street opposite the Gucci store near the opera house.

Quan An Ngon, Ho Chi Minh, Vietnam

On the way back from Siem Reap, we had a 7 hour layover in Ho Chi Minh.  What better way to spend a day than to eat your way through the city?

D Guy was prepared as usual and we tried calling four restaurants upon arrival.  As many restaurants are closed to celebrate the New Year, we did not want to risk disappointment.  Finally, Quan An Ngon, answered the phone and confirmed they were open.  We immediately headed to District 1 in a taxi.

  

When we arrived, it was a madhouse!  It seemed like the only place in town that was open and every tourist and local had decided to eat there.  Thankfully, they were extremely efficient, if not immediately friendly, and seated us in less than 15 minutes. Phew.

Then the feasting began..

 Vietnamese pancake

Crispy Fried Rice with Dried Shrimps

   Lotus Stem Salad with Shrimp & Pork

  Pounded Shrimp Hash Fried on Sugarcane served with Vermicelli and Rice Paper

  Freshwater Crab Vermicelli Soup with Tofu, Shrimp & Pork Paste

 Ca Goi with Vermicelli and Fresh Herbs

The food was wonderful and each dish was accompanied by a multitude of fresh vegetables and its own different sauce.  The flavours were varied and every single bite was tasty.  Their numerous kitchen stations enabled them to cater to numerous customers all while producing very high quality food.

As for the ambience, the ochre-coloured house provided a wonderful backdrop to our meal and exuded an old world colonial charm.  It is an unforgettable setting and certainly made us linger for quite some time.

Meric, Hotel de al Paix, Siem Reap, Cambodia

Meric is located in the beautiful Hotel de la Paix, not too far from the city centre.  Named after a pepper grown in the Kampot region of Cambodia, Meric is the restaurant you want to treat yourself to after multiple days of "tomb raiding".  It is probably better to save it for the last evening as it will render all other restaurants less than satisfactory.

  

We started off the evening with a drink, actually two, at the hotel bar/lounge.  I ordered the Cambodian Rice Brandy (coffee flavoured) on the rocks which smelled enticing but packed a punch.  I quickly followed up with a Khmer Martini hoping for something gentler and sweeter but it was equally strong consisting of vodka, lemongrass and kaffir lime.

We had a view of the inner courtyard which was mystically lit with gas-flame braziers and featured a beautiful tree in the middle of a little pond.

The restaurant is helmed by Joannes Riviere, son of a French chef & organic farmer from Lyon, who moved to Cambodia in 2002.  His cuisine is a mix of Khmer and French cuisine using produce from local farms.  The Khmer tasting menu changes according to seasonal availability and should not be missed.

The other items from the main menu were also excellent leaving us extremely well-fed.  Pictured here (from left to right) : Quail confit with spinach angel hair, crispy wonton and green mango dressing, Roasted Mekong Lobster, Coriander Rice Cake, Emulsion with Coral, Coconut Cream and Dry Vermouth, and Roasted Curry Rubbed Australian Beef Tenderloin with Red Onion Marmalade and Ginger Scented Sweet Potato Gratin. 

We had planned to paint the town red on our last night in Siem Reap, but after our sumptuous dinner at Meric, we all voted to turn in for the night for fear of spoiling our lingering happy impressions of our Cambodian experience. 

The Soup Dragon, Siem Reap, Cambodia

High noon is usually the time where everyone ducks for cover in the shade to escape the searing Cambodian midday heat.  We chose to take cover in a restaurant for a cold beer and some food.  The Soup Dragon boasts an extensive menu including a Vietnamese selection longer than the Cambodian one.  Despite the heat, there were people partaking in the hotpot!!

D Guy picked the best dish, as usual, and opted for a Cambodian curry with rice.  I chose the Pad Thai as I get Indochinese cuisine mixed up confusing Cambodian with Vietnamese, Vietnamese with Thai, etc.  Joy, in a fit of healthy living, settled for finger food to go along with our 50 cent Anchor draft beer.

Sitting on the balcony overlooking the street affords a good view of everyday life on Pub Street.  This meant that we saw a lean dark local jumping through a ring of knives to the sound of Cambodian music as well as the delivery of ice right from the back of an open-top truck, where the vendor cut the long pillars of ice with what looked like a rusty saw and hammer (thankfully my beer did not need ice).

The Soup Dragon -- Near Old Market, Siem Reap. T: (063) 964 933. Open daily 06:00-late.

Cafe Indochine, Siem Reap, Cambodia

It seems that there are as many versions of the Cambodian specialty, Amok Chicken, as there are restaurants.  In our continuing search for Khmer specialties, D Guy, Joy and I chose the Cafe Indochine as the site of our dual Chinese New Year - Valentine's Day dinner venue.

To make up for the absence of the missing musketeer who was dutifully visiting back home, we ordered enough food to feed four - the Khmer tasting menu for two and the Cambodian tasting menu for two.

Some of the dishes that were included : Deep fried spring rolls, Warm pomelo salad, a delicious hot and sour Lobster coconut soup, a vegetable curry that reminded me of sayur lodeh, the ubiquitous Amok Chicken, the Lok Lak Beef with fries and the black pepper beef (chicken not shown).

Not a bad showing by the restaurant, but a very poor showing from us as we struggled, of course, to eat everything.  Our tuk-tuk driver was the lucky recipient of the food we couldn't finish.  We just hoped he was not vegetarian or Buddhist as we had given him a good portion of meat and beef.  Happy Valentine's Day!

Blue Pumpkin, Siem Reap, Cambodia

Offering Free Wifi in Siem Reap appears to be a much more widely accepted practice than in more "developed" cities like Singapore. If you are looking for somewhere cool (ie airconditioning) with sweets and pastries and free Wifi, the Blue Pumpkin, is the place.

You can view their homemade offerings downstairs but head to the second level where the ac is cold and the lounge chairs large.  They welcome you with cold towels to wipe off the dust of the streets, however, they are tinged strangely with axe oil (commonly known to the Chinese as "wind oil").  On that day, I found it particularly refreshing as long as I didn't get any in my eyes.


Blue Pumpkin-- Near Old Market, Siem Reap. T: (012) 946 227. Open daily 06:00-22:00.

FCC Angkor, Siem Reap, Cambodia

If you get "templed out" but still want to claim that you are interested in history, drop by the FCC Angkor under the guise of wanting to visit the French Governor's former residence.  Upon arrival, you will be treated to a plantation-style art deco building that serves cold drinks and good snacks.

  

FCC Angkor -- Pokambor Ave, Siem Reap. T: (063) 760 283. http://www.fcccambodia.com Open daily 07:00-late.

Samot Fine Cuisine & Wine, Siem Reap, Cambodia

After spending a good part of the day travelling to Siem Reap, we were eager to go out to experience the local cuisine and nightlife.  

Samot appears often on top ten lists of places to dine in Siem Reap and apparently specialises in seafood, a combination which made the choice for our first night's dinner venue, easy. 

The Chef de Cuisine, Patrick Guerry, formerly worked at the Sofitel before starting his own restaurant.  Looking at the website, a 10-course menu was supposed to be on offer, but all we got was a rather limited menu and somewhat grim service.  Still, there was seafood to be had, however the pasta with clams barely had even a shred of clam in it.  The location was charming on a little side street with a Parisian feel.  

The seafood was fresh and the dishes nicely presented but somehow, the food lacked oomph.  Perhaps we were not French and therefore could not appreciate the finer points of the cuisine - the reviews on Tripadvisor (mostly in French) were certainly complimentary - but I guess it was not too expensive given what we ordered.

We had a complimentary amuse bouche of Tonle Sap shrimp to be dipped in salt and eaten with a squeeze of lime.  My Prawn Starter was nicely prepared but my Scallops on Asparagus was on the salty side.  The Penne, as mentioned, had hardly a trace of clams, but after our "feedback" the chef sent out a dish of clams in their sauce.  Sadly it was not very appetising.  A somewhat disappointing first meal in Siem Reap, but I guess it is not known as one of the culinary capitals of the world given the poor state of the economy.  Perhaps, the experience was more a reflection of our "big city" expectations than anything else.